Night Vision part II

This issue I will be testing the NV scopes kindly loaned to me by Ashley Beard of Thomas Jacks to see what we can actually expect out of the various tube ratings. If you are reading this for the first time they lent me three Yukon Sentinel NV scopes a Gen 1 (2.5x50), Super Gen 1+ (2x50) and Gen 2+ (3x50). Plus an optical doubler and laser IR projector. The idea was to give an idea of what to expect out of the more common types of nightvision scope. In Part 1 (April 2010) I discussed the subject in general, looked at specifications and recounted some of my experiences.

Targeting

Zeroing needs to be carried out at the best average distance you are likely to engage your quarry. With 22 Long Rifle I set up for 50-yards, but with 17HMR I step it out to 100. The problem as always is having a target you can see clearly.

My experience has shown that slim lines on paper do not work as they get all too easily lost in the view and reticule. I suppose at worst your chosen rifle needs to be able to shoot into an inch at 50-yards if it’s a 22 LR, or in the case of a 17 HMR or centrefire; two inches at the very worst at 100. Experiment with what is the best sight picture for you; I now use black insulation tape, which gives a decent broad cross with near inch wide arms. This allows me enough meat to see and place my reticule easily.

Don’t forget that most NV scopes are of Russian origin and use a moving image reticule. Meaning the correction is into the error; group left, move the reticule left to adjust the point of impact right. Experiment with the IR as sometimes you will get a better view with it off; certainly on a light background or clear /moon lit night; given the ability of the scope…

Know Your Enemy

Of equal benefit is to get full sizes animal shapes – rabbits etc. - so you can see how much they cover (subtend) of the reticule at various distances to aid both range finding and shot placement. Here the more you practice the better you get. Don’t forget you can shoot in the day as the lens cover, which must not be removed until after dark has a pin hole in the centre that allows zeroing due to the reduction in light getting into the scope. However, never forget Rule #1 – “MR LIGHT IS NOT OUR FRIEND”…

Hunting with an NV scope throws up some odd side effects, one of which is prolonged use. After viewing that green/grey flickering screen you come away from the scope with a feeling that someone has shone a high power torch in your eyes. This takes a minute to go away and is most disorientating. Also it’s easy to spot buildings that have IR lights as part of their security systems.

With the infra red (IR) illuminator on you get a good reflection off the animal’s eye, which makes for a great aiming mark, at times. However, this must be balanced against your view of the target too. Is it side, head on or quartering, factors that will affect proper shot placement? 

Quick and Efficient Kills

If you’re not happy with a head shot then work out where the heart/lung shot is in relation to its eyes. This can be practiced with full sized targets as already detailed. The real problem with NV is that you need to drop the quarry near on the spot and in truth only a head shot will do that. It’s bad enough trying to find a bunny that has gone straight down, let alone one that has been fatally wounded and is dragging itself away as they always do…

In use you must constantly be aware of three variables for the successful shot – front and rear focus and reticule illumination, as all will differ even with a short change of distance, or ambient light in the case of the last. Unlike a day scope/lamp set up this takes longer to achieve, though luckily you are totally covert while doing it.

Then factor in accurate range estimation, correct bullet placement and finding them afterwards and it’s plain to see that though NV gives you a potentially huge advantage; it’s still a lot of work! For me and though it’s unavoidable and understandable; the lack of a quality sight picture and effective range when compared to a day scope is frustrating. Which is perhaps why I have stuck with a lamp for so long?

Other Options

Like any field of development NV technology is always moving forward, we now have digital scopes that are not light sensitive as the older tubed models. These appear to be the way forward. Likewise you can now get NV viewers that can be used with a day scope. So you have a quality optical package but enhanced as you literally bolt a night vision facility on board. These fit to the eyepiece bell or the objective and do increase the length of the optic considerably, so the scope might need re-positioning backwards/forwards on an extension rail.

A keeper I know has the rear-mounted Archer unit fitted to a Nightforce on his 243 Winchester Stealth for fox work and swears by it. The real beauty of these is that it allows a day/night capability as the NV viewer can be quickly removed/re-fitted with no changes to the scope. Something not possible with a pure NV optic…

Cheaper and reasonably effective alternatives are NV binoculars or a monocular. Used in conjunction with a gun lamp they allow observation though not targeting of the quarry. Here you see what you want to shoot in the dark then ready yourself and hit it with the light to make the shot. A compromise but a working one none the less; certainly if there are two of you! Some monocular systems come with a head harness to give hands-free operation, which will allow no-lights driving or foot stalking too. It’s also possible to get IR filters for your standard, white light lamps and these can really flood a field with illumination when viewed through an NV scope; sometime a bit too much. The GoLight remote controlled lamp even offers a dedicated IR version too.

NV Ability

For ascertaining the ability of the three NV scopes my test criteria was simple. I went out and shot a hare to be my real life, dead target, which was set up in a sitting position. Each scope would be used without IR to see if it worked in that mode, then with integral IR, the Lynx IR laser and finally with the doubler fitted. I would keep moving back with the different permutations to determine min/max effective distances using a rangefinder. Results were interesting and figures rounded to the nearest 5-yds as to the maximum effective range in the various permutations!

Gen 1

No IR       IR       IR Laser   IR laser & doubler
No target   15-yds   30-yds     35-yds

Comments: Generally indistinct sight picture, on board IR OK but not amazing, IR laser best. This, the most basic unit, is very much in airgun territory.

*****

Super Gen 1 +
No IR       IR       IR Laser   IR laser & doubler
No target   35-yds   45-yds     45-yds

Comments: Already I could see an improvement in image quality, with the doubler allowing a bigger target picture. I reckon on a good night this would push to 50-yds for targeting and maybe up to 75 for general observation.

******

Gen 2

No IR       IR         IR Laser     IR laser & doubler
15-yds       60-yds   65-yds       90-yds

Comments: The higher quality of the Gen 2 tube shows through with a clearer/crisper image that shows better definition at longer ranges. Interesting was the fact that the range was similar with the on board and laser IR sources. The doubler comes into it’s own as the extra magnification should allow 100-yd targeting in ideal conditions and probably 150-yds + as an observation device.

Given the generally overcast conditions I tested in my results might change a little on a clear night with the moon out. But that is what I found at the time… Again I am no expert so am coming at this from the layman’s view point!

At the end of the day nightvision technology is little short of amazing. Hunting range and image quality is the real deciding factor along, of course with the price. An airgunner for example could get probably get by with a Gen 1 and an IR laser. For me having sampled the three generations it would have to be a Gen 2 with a doubler.

To be honest I am still not totally convinced with nightvision optics in my price range. As a day scope/lamp user the ability of the units is still a little disappointing; especially with what you can afford. However, there is one constant; the more money you throw at NV the better it gets!