Getting into Field Target Shooting

I have been fortunate that during my 30 years in FT I have been able to meet shooters from all over the World, many of whom shoot anything from .308 down to .22 rimfire and almost without exception they agree that using a sub-12ft/lb air rifle for FT or Hunter FT is one of the biggest tests of skill and judgement that there is! Also, there’s no licence required; Scotland being the sad exception, and practice is possible in the majority of gardens with a suitable backstop.

Of course, the correct rifle, optics, and set up are very important and to compete at the top level requires this, plus a great deal of dedication. However, between that level and the beginning is a very steep learning curve and we all have to start somewhere. In this series of articles I will go through the various steps required. This month, I will take you through the basics of choosing an air rifle with a view to shooting FT or HFT. Whatever level you will shoot at the basic skills remain the same. Welcome to your first step into the great sport of Field Target Shooting.

Power system

What power system do I go for; spring or pre-charged pneumatic (PCP)? This will be governed by what floats your boat and your budget and what level of rifle you are thinking of buying. If it`s new, you will get a manufacturer’s guarantee and at the same time, have the peace of mind that nobody has been tinkering about with the action. You will also have to budget for a telescopic sight and mounts. PCPs need an air bottle and gauge for charging; another must these days, is a case or bag to carry it in.

Stick to top manufacturers and you won’t go far wrong but expect to pay extra for established models. The fixed barrel spring rifles that use an under or side lever to cock the action are the best choice. However, I wouldn’t recommend the ‘break-barrel’ type for FT!

The Air Arms TX200 is a good example of a top quality under-lever. Weihrauch still produces some great springers; the HW97 and 97KT are superb guns. Their predecessor, the HW77 is still a great rifle if a used one is your only option. It’s also the daddy of FT shooters, and the only springer worth a carrot back in the mid and late 1980s.

In the lower price range, springers usually come with open sights, however the above-mentioned under-levers have no sighting system. The reason is their high accuracy potential is better utilised with a scope, so why put on something that will only be removed?

Crossing the line

As you get above the £350 mark, PCPs start to come into the equation. Very capable guns like the Air Arms S200 and S400 range (both unregulated) are very popular and tremendously accurate at the entry level of FT and beyond. The S200 particularly for Juniors! At the other end of the scale we have Anschutz, Steyr, Feinwerkbau, along with the Air Arms FTP900 and Daystate’s new Tsar FT offering. Whatever you decide I’d recommend .177” as opposed to .22”, as these articles are predominantly target-orientated. More on this next month.

Second-hand rifles

You can stretch your budget a lot further if you think about buying second-hand but beware!

Ideally, you should know something about the particular rifle and be able to test fire it. Those sold privately, often come with extras; often everything you might need from the adjustment tools down to the ammunition that shoots well in it. You need to ask a few questions about its history. The airgun fraternity has its fair share of ‘tinkerers’ who can ruin a perfectly good rifle in minutes! This tends to apply to the lower end of the market where for instance, a middle range springer has been ‘modified’ by the inexperienced owner, either by fitting a spring off a 747 undercarriage, or feeding the action with a gallon of oil every tin of pellets.

Result: a rifle that Rambo would find hard to cock, and if he did manage to fire it, would leave him with double vision and cracked dentures due to the terrible vibration! They are out there, believe me!

Questions to ask: Was it bought new. How long has the present owner had it. Is it modified in any way and if so, who did the work. Why is it being sold. The old `unwanted gift` excuse is hard to justify with a kitted out rifle. Rusting on any part of the action will tell you that the owner has not cleaned it very well after use. If it’s dirty outside, how about the internals.

Apart from a wipe down externally, they require internal cleaning. What about the barrel. It may never have cleaned. On the other hand, it may have had a dyno-rod down there, scrubbing away at the rifling. With Air Rifles, more barrels are damaged through incorrect cleaning than ones that never get touched. Its only soft lead that is travelling down it at relatively low velocity propelled by air.

Shine a light

At worse, an unclean barrel will cause inaccuracy, which can be rectified with a good cleaning. If possible, you need to shine a light down one end and have a visual check. Check for marks that appear as shadows and follow a noticeable path as the barrel is slowly turned. If it appears stationary, it is probably exactly that: A shadow! Usually, your thumbnail will reflect enough light down the barrel from a decent source of daylight to allow a quick inspection.

Inspect the business end, making sure that the rifle is un-cocked and unloaded first of course.

The end of the muzzle (crown) should be free of any marks or knocks. This is the last contact that the pellet has with the bore, and if it’s damaged, inaccuracy will result and no amount of shooting or cleaning will make it shoot straight. The good news is re-crowning is a relatively simple job for a gunsmith.

If time and facilities allow, push a pellet through slowly from breech to muzzle.

Examine it after it emerges. It should have the marks from the rifling imprinted around the waist and skirt. They should appear cleanly cut and uniform all the way round. Any other marks will need further investigation! The pellet should tighten up towards the end of the bore as all air rifle barrels are ‘choked’ for a couple of inches to aid accuracy. In the case of a springer, cock the action and feel for roughness. It should be smooth all the way back to the cocked position and not make any undue noise as it’s compressed. When fired, it should be reasonably quiet, grease on the spring is there to silence or `damp` it.

Doing well

You will be doing well if you can check all the above things, but try to get through as many as you can. If you’re buying from a shop, the person behind the counter should be able to satisfy most of the questions and demonstrate that the rifle is in good order.

Looking specifically at PCPs, many of the same checks can be made and questions asked.

If it’s not charged, ask to see it charged and then check for obvious leakage. The main areas are at the muzzle and breach. Simply get your ear near to them and listen! Unlike their springer counterparts, PCPs can be ‘dry fired’. In other words, they can be fired without the need to load a pellet. To do this with a spring gun is a big no-no and could wreck it. The big heavy piston requires back pressure to stop it slamming into the transfer port end of the cylinder. The pellet provides this back pressure.

The PCP has no big heavy piston, only a small ‘hammer’ and spring, which strikes a valve to release a measured amount of air. So it can be safely cocked and fired empty without damaging the action.

Feel for smooth and positive cocking and check the trigger action. A ropey trigger is not normally cause for concern, as virtually all are adjustable but if in doubt ask the question.

A PCP should discharge with a nice sharp ‘crack’ or ‘pop’. It shouldn’t sound like a sheep with diarrhoea. A sort of `Bbllaatt! This could simply mean that it needs filling, so make sure it is charged and try it again. If the noise is still the same it probably indicates `valve bounce`. A sure sign that someone has been fiddling with the action. Give it a wide berth!

PCP safety

PCPs operate at high pressures, up to 3000 psi and above, which are potentially dangerous, so care when filling and handling rifles and pressure bottles needs to be exercised. Don’t panic, as they are perfectly safe when used within their limits. Read all safety instructions thoroughly and keep the charging equipment clean and away from direct heat. Air expands when heated, which can take pressures up above recommended levels.

Have fun choosing the right rifle for you. If you can afford it, go for a PCP and a decent Scope. Buy it in .177” and believe me, you will have a gun for every occasion. Next month, I will look at why .177 is the best choice for FT.

Happy & Safe Shooting

Facts to consider

PCPs:

• Need a ‘filling kit’ comprising of pressure bottle, filler pipe and gauge, which adds to the cost.
• There’s no mainspring to wear out but they require care and the occasional lubing of moving parts, trigger etc. Plus O-rings eventually leak and proper servicing is required.
• They are practically recoilless and are much more forgiving in the firing process, so easier to shoot accurately!
• Unregulated guns have a ‘power curve’ as they cycle through a charge of air. It is important to know what to fill it to and how many ‘good’ shots are available from one charge.

Springers:

• They carry their own integral power source all the time.
• Springs ‘wear out’ and also need lubing correctly from time to time.
• They have unique recoil, which makes accuracy susceptible to changes in hold technique.
• Their actions are heavier than a PCP’s, due to the weight of the spring/piston and associated parts.