Place of Interest - Elizabeth Castle

The Channel Island of Jersey has a long and rich history stretching back over many centuries and although small, 46 square miles, it has been fought over many times. At one time the island even had its own local defence force, the Jersey Militia. Although a British Crown Dependency, it is a self-governing state with its own parliament, the States Assembly, and is rightly proud of its history.
Its strategic location, together with the other islands in the archipelago, made it a thorn in the side of Napoleon. However, by the 20th century, its importance as a military base was greatly reduced. Several fine museums on the island tell the local history from various aspects, the most interesting for the military enthusiast being Elizabeth Castle. From the shore, looking at it on a rocky islet on the south coast, it is impressive. Tourists arriving on Jersey by ferry get the best view of it all as they sail past it into the harbour at St Helier.

An island castle
The castle has been involved in most of the military engagements against Jersey, including the attack by Pero Nino in 1406, the Civil War in 1651, the Battle of Jersey in 1781, and the German occupation from 1940 to 1945. Details of these can be found at the castle, together with the Museum of the Jersey Militia and a permanent exhibition called ‘Granite and Gunpowder’. Historians of military architecture can trace the development of the castle from its earliest days, through the Tudor period to the 19th century and the Napoleonic Wars. There are also plenty of German emplacements from the years of occupation.
Being an island in itself, visiting Elizabeth Castle is dependent on the tide. At low tide, it is possible to walk along the concrete causeway, to approach it in the way French troops did when seeking the surrender of the castle in 1781, only to be met by grapeshot. When the tide is in, visitors can travel by amphibious truck, which gives great photographic opportunities. Whichever way is chosen, stepping through the gates on arrival is to step back in time.
Live action displays on the events calendar include demonstrations by the local re-enactment group of musketry fire from the Battle of Jersey and other aspects of military life through the centuries. The interior has easy access to all levels, from the gun batteries on the ramparts to the German bunkers, some of which still house guns of the period. Looking from any gun port there are commanding views across the bay, which made the castle such an important military site.

Weapons and warfare
Up the path from the main entrance is the Lower Ward, which was once the parade ground and surrounded on all sides by buildings and defensive walls. Here, the Granite and Gunpowder exhibition contains weapons that will interest all, especially those who study the development of artillery. The earliest item is a replica springald dart-shooting device from medieval times, followed by a falconet from the 16th century. Heavier cannon follow through to the Napoleonic Wars and into the Victorian period, with an unusual Parapet gun on its original carriage, dated 1862.
Across the courtyard, the entrance to the Jersey Militia exhibition leads into a series of galleries containing medals, uniforms, weapons, photographs, and personal items. The drums and regimental colours are also hung here and there is a fine display of regimental silver. The photographs document how the island played its part in its own defence along with regular forces deployed there.
Walking around the interior of the castle, it is possible to see how it evolved and became a platform for artillery from where the guns could defend the entrance into the harbour. Anything entering the bay would have been observed and if hostile would have been engaged by the guns. The Germans recognised this and fortified the site by blending in with existing, earlier positions. On the long breakwater, extending from the castle’s southern side, are the remains of a concrete bunker built by the Germans, from where they could operate an electrically controlled minefield against shipping.

Time well spent
There are displays inside the castle showing life in the Tudor period and the architecture shows details from the same period. Sir Walter Raleigh served as the Governor of the island and used the castle as part of his accommodation. During the English Civil War, the castle was besieged for several weeks by Parliamentarian forces and bombarded by artillery. It has also been used as a prison where French troops were held captive during the Seven Years War during the 18th century. By the 19th century, it was still being used as a barracks for regular troops posted there as the garrison. During WWII, its once-formidable fortifications were utilised and upgraded by the Germans and today these remnants are eagerly explored by military enthusiasts and curious visitors alike.
This is a site over which time must be taken to see everything and it is fascinating to wander along pathways and follow stairs up to the ramparts and the highest point, from where the view is incredible. The castle does not tell all about Jersey, but it does tell a great deal of the island’s history, which can be used if visiting any of the other historical sites or museums on the island, such as Mont Orgueil Castle, which dominates the Royal Bay of Grouville on the eastern end of the island. There is a shop selling books about the castle and wider local history.
For those who like adventure, Jersey Tourism has renovated and furnished an apartment within the grounds, with modern appointments to the highest standard. The idea of being cut off when the tide is in and exploring the castle at night sounds exciting. At low tide, visitors can walk around some of the exterior parts but be mindful of the tide. The site closes during the winter months, so check online for opening times and dates, along with details on how to rent the apartment.
www.jerseyheritage.org