Lee Load-all

For me, reloading is a tonic; it not only quenches the desire to achieve something better and having more performance but the act of reloading is quite therapeutic. Sounds a bit odd maybe but through actually ‘doing it’, you learn so much more and then can appreciate how a particular gun or load performs.

I have gone about as far as you can go with rifle reloading and so I thought a spot of shotgun reloading might spark up that inquisitive nature in me. My god it did; I am not really into shotguns at all compared to rifles but the lure of slug, buck shot and big calibre 10-gauges might interest me.

In fact, Norman Clark gunsmiths really got me going, as Norman is a wealth of knowledge; not only on all things rifle but is a shotgun guru as well. I purchased a MEC SteelMaster press off him recently, to reload my Browning 10g BPS pump that is used for geese in Scotland.

I wanted to load some 12-gauge loads and so Hannam’s kindly sent down a Lee load-All 2 press that I bought instantly, due to its incredible price and no-nonsense operation. Norman Clark supplied all the reloading sundries and we were ready to start loading.

Easy as 1, 2, 3

Firstly, reloading shotguns is a totally different kettle of fish than rifle reloading. In fact, it can be a bit more baffling in terms of differing shells used, i.e. hulls, and choice of wadding is critical, as is the differing use of lead or steel shot, as it makes a big difference to a safe load or not.

With that in mind I would thoroughly recommend you buy the Lyman 5th Edition Shotshell Reloading Handbook, as this is the bible when it comes to shotgun reloading. It has a superb section on the differing shotgun shells that are available for reloading, with cross sectional pictures. This is important, as the depth and form of the base wad that sits within the head section and where the primer is held is crucial in the type and length of extra wadding needed for a particular shot charge.

You will see in the reloading section at the back of the book that reloads are arranged based on the shell/hull/case you use. Adhere to this, otherwise too few or more wads will be used and result in differing pressures.

This is new to me; rifle cases also vary but not to this degree, so take real note here, as with choice of lead or steel shot charges, as choosing the same 1oz load will be significantly different for either due to differing shot density.

With a case chosen and typical load weight, the reloading tables will tell you exactly the correct primer to use; again, important and essentially the wadding type. Here, you will be given a choice of wad type i.e. single plastic column type i.e. integral and this can differ between the powder type chosen, despite the same shot load weight, so again take note. Sometimes, it may be necessary to load an under-shot column card, such as a 20-gauge 0.125-inch under shot card to complete the wad height.

It’s not difficult but a small difference can make a big difference on firing!

Powder choice too is quite wide-ranging and being a large bored weapon, a 12-gauge shotgun requires a faster burning powder than say a normal rifle calibre. Powders such as Titewad, Red Dot, Clays, Unique, Blue Dot or SR 7625 are all ideal and with the same shot weight load can be varied to provide a differing load density i.e. differing wad column height and of course differing velocity.

Do it all

Turning to the Lee Load-All 2 now, this is a one-stop station that will de-prime old cases and then take you through every stage of loading and finishing a 12-gauge shell to make a tailor made round.

It is a simple yet very effective press, it must be as it was invented in 1958 by Richard Lee and then updated in the seventies into the Lee Load-All as we have here. This press is cheap £65.35 and is available in 12g, 16g and 20g. It is made from high-impact plastic for the main part but with the essential strengthened areas of aluminium or steel. It uses a multi-station ethos of progressing a shell along the base section to perform a single action such as de-prime, powder loading, crimp etc. This is all done with one movement of the large handle that moves the top section down to the base to perform the task in hand.

Work from left to right, it’s as simple as that. You get with your purchase 24 red plastic shot and powder bushings. These are all indexed, so you can choose with safety any load you like and complete with the press is a good pamphlet that details the correct bushings for the shot and powder you intend to use.

You also have a guide to the step-by-step procedure to load either 2¾- or 3-inch shells, with low or high brass hulls. You also can crimp 6 or 8-star crimp closures too.

Step 1

Before you reload, the Lee load-All 2 must be securely screwed to a strong base with the screws provided. I used an IKEA wooden trolley, as this can be wheeled in and out of position for all around reloading access.

Step 2

Install the primer punch, spring and primer guide into Station 2. You can also buy a primer tray if you like, so you do not have to handle primers.

Step 3

Next, remove the name plate on the front, to reveal the shot and powder bushings. Choose from the reloading tables which is appropriate with your load and install and replace the cover.

Step 4

Now, you can fill the hopper with shot and powder. First, slide the charge bar to the left and fill with shot and powder. Note that the powder hopper is the smaller of the two on the left-hand side.

Step 5

Either sort used cases to de-prime, or have ready new hulls of the same type, to correspond to the correct wad type.

Step 6

Start the reloading procedure. Station 1; if using a used case, slip the sizing ring over the case with the groove end facing up. Put the shell into the station 1 and pull down on the operating handle. This full-length sizes and de-primes the case in one stroke.

Step 7

Place a primer into the primer pocket at station 2 and move the shell to this position and pull down the handle again. The sizing die/ring is pulled off and the primer is seated.

Step 8

At station 3 slip the case into the wad guide.

Step 9

Lower the handle and slide the charge bar to the right and this will add the correct powder charge, governed by the bush.

Step 10

Raise the handle and now you can insert the correct wad through the wad-guide and lower the handle to seat the wad over the powder charge.

Step 11

With the handle still down, you next move the charge bar to the left, which adds the correct shot payload.

Step 12

Remove the shell to Station 4 and lower the handle to its fullest extent and this starts the crimp procedure, check you have the 6- or 8-star crimp. You may need to ease it slowly to start and hold down for a moment to make sure the crimp is started correctly.

Step 13

Move the shell immediately to station 5 to stop plastic ‘spring back’ of the crimp and lower the handle finally.

The crimp should be perfect; if it has a hole in it, the wad is too small and a crumpled top means the wad is too long. When the shot is loaded into the wad there should be about ½ inch of plastic shell above the shot on a -2 gauge.

Voila! You should have a perfectly formed 12-gauge round for use.

Conclusion

Lee Precision offer some very good and well-designed reloading equipment, I rated their rifle reloading dies highly, having recently used their 300 Blackout and .458 Socom dies. This Lee Load-All 2 full-fills all the brief of a reasonably priced shotgun reloading press.

Like all Lee kit, it comes with everything you need and clear instructions and it really is so simple to use. Many will buy this to make cheap 12-gauge shells, which is ideal; I like it because I can manually custom make loads precisely made for the game and areas/range I intend to shoot in.

Highly recommended and thanks to Hannam’s Reloading and Norman Clark’s for supplying the kit, which I bought!