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Selecting Bushcraft Tools: Part 2

Selecting Bushcraft Tools: Part 2

I carry some sort of folding pocket knife nearly every day of the year. Where I live and work this does not bring me into conflict with the law, but just to be on the safe side my usual Every Day Carry (EDC) is a non-locking, sub 3-inch bladed folding knife. This kind of knife is acceptable under UK law for carrying without having a legitimate ‘good reason’ for so doing; but read up on the law yourself and do not quote me if a policeman starts getting worried about where/when/ how/what you are carrying in the way of pocket tools!

As a rule, my personal choice for an EDC knife is something neat, attractive and generally ‘non-threatening’ in appearance, that does not weigh too much and is not an uncomfortable lump in my pocket. I generally choose a natural material handle and a carbon steel blade that is easy to sharpen and holds a good edge, but the essential features for me tend to be quality of manufacture and a strong spring to hold the blade securely closed in my pocket, and as securely open as possible when in use. Too many people have been cut with their own knife when it folded on them in use (that is why lock blades were invented!).

Another of my favourite EDCs is the good old Swiss Army Knife (SAK). With a huge range of models you can select a SAK that fits your needs and, after years of trying out, I found the one I like to fit my everyday and bushcraft needs – the ‘Huntsman’ from Victorinox. With its two blades, can opener, bottle opener, scissors, saw, screwdrivers, awl, corkscrew, tweezers, toothpick, etc. it has all I need for most days and is of very high-quality manufacture. I did improve the look of my SAK by having it rescaled in antler, but that was to match my other favourite pocket knife, an A Wright carbon bladed pocket knife, and most days I will carry both items, one in each front trouser pocket.

Another type of EDC that I like is the ‘friction knife’ type folder. This is a simple design, where the blade has a long tang, which protrudes from handle when the knife is closed and pivots around to fit into the handle when the blade is out. The blade and tang have a tight friction fit inside the handle for security and as the tang is held inside the handle by your hand when the knife is in use, there is little chance of the knife closing on your hand. The friction knife I prefer is a Svord ‘Peasant’, but to fit under the 3-inch blade criteria I had to reshape the blade a little.

Lock up

When I do have a legitimate good reason to carry one, such as when out bushcrafting, I prefer to have the security of a locking blade on my folding knives and look for one where there is almost no chance of accidentally releasing the lock in use.

As with my fixed knife blades, I prefer my lock knives to have natural material handles and carbon steel blades, but especially in damp environments, will go for good quality stainless blades, such as Sandvik 14c28N or 12c27 and sometimes a synthetic handle as well. I would never choose to do heavier bushcraft tasks, and definitely no batoning, with a folding knife, as my instincts tell me this would soon weaken the pivot and lock and damage the knife, but with some good folding knives I may be being a bit cautious in this.

A good example of a secure locking blade is the Opinel knife. These are available in a host of sizes and handle materials and with either carbon or stainless steel blades and have a rotating collar to lock the knife open or closed.

Not the strongest knives in the world, the ‘Opi’ is nonetheless an excellent choice for lighter bushcraft work and is generally inexpensive, practical, functional and, in the basic wooden handle, handsome.

The ‘Opi’ is also an ideal subject for customisation, while some of the limited edition Opinel knives are already very handsome. As I like the locks on my knives to be as secure as possible, I was quite taken with the lock system on the Ruike P831-SF, where a frame lock is backed up by a ‘Beta’ lockto lock the lock in place!

Multi-tools

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Another type of pocket tool that I like to have by me is the multi-tool, the kind predominantly based around a pair of pliers.

I have tried out an enormous number of these tools over the years from many manufacturers and have generally found that you get what you pay for. Cheaper tools tend to fall apart much sooner than those that cost more, and with the range of tool versions available from makers such as Leatherman, you can choose a multi-tool to suit your own needs.

My own personal collection, mainly from Leatherman (and including one that Tim Leatherman himself gave me) is quite large and I can choose the tool selection on a trip-bytrip basis, but most of them present the issue of their having a locking blade, making them less suitable as a UK EDC.

My choice of EDC multi-tool is a Leatherman Rebar, one of the few (the only?) multi-tool to come without a knife blade. The Rebar EDC also offers a fine selection of tools that suit my needs well and, as I carry an EDC pocket knife, I do not miss the blade on the multi-tool.

Spooning

The final types of bushcraft tool that I am going to look at is the spoon knife and dedicated wood carving knife often called a ‘Sloyd’.

Many bushcrafters enjoy carving for the sake of carving and while a lot of the knives I select for general bushcraft use are excellent for general carving to make assorted ‘needful things’ around camp, for dedicated and fine work carving you cannot beat a dedicated knife for the job, which is where a Sloyd comes in.

This type of knife is available from many makers in a variety of lengths, but I prefer a shorter blade (heavy cutting can be done with my general bushcraft blade) which allows fine control. Sloyds mostly come with a very slim and pointed blade, ground with a Scandi grind with no secondary bevel and are extremely sharp for best results. Handles are generally of a barrel shape and can come in a range of materials, but are generally wooden, often matching spoon carving knives from the same maker.

Those bushcrafters who like carving often like spoon, bowl and wooden cup carving and ‘spoon knives’ are the tools for these jobs. These can be had from a range of custom and commercial makers and in a range of curvatures.

I look for a variety of things when choosing Sloyds and spoon knives – quality of steel, fit and finish, attractiveness, a grind bevel that is not too abrupt and a curve that suits the kind of project I am after. Good examples are the Casstrom spoon knives and Sloyd type knife that make up a good spoon carving set. Not only are the quality and fit-and-finish good, but the grind is just right for me, the curve of the spoon knives a good all-rounder, but the spoon knives are available in ‘left’ and ‘right’ (or backward and forward) cut versions, as well as being the only spoon knives I am aware of that come with a dedicated sheath or cover!

I avoid, or remodel, spoon knives I am aware of that come with double edges for both left and right cuts; they seem to me to be accidents in waiting!

Enjoy selecting bushcraft tools that suit you and your needs.

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